A really tremendous day on the bike today, and a day that ended in a new State, and in a very unexpected way. So many tremendous sights along the way that this can only be a flavour of everything I saw.

• Today’s Distance (miles): 63
• Time in saddle: 5h 23
• Max/min temp – in sun (°c): 39°/18°
• Climbing (feet) : 1,938
• Calories used: 3,800
• Today’s 2nd Breakfast: HB Provisions, Kennebunkport
• Cafe time: 3h 21

I decided to go for a quick swim before checking out this morning – then I decided that the pool was padlocked shut. My guess is that it opens between 10am (checkout time) and 3pm (check in time).

Great night’s sleep, I’m glad to say, the full 8 hours which is a bit of a rarity. It rained heavily all night, but was clear and steamy this morning. There were also severe floods all over the northern US yesterday, especially Vermont where a river burst its banks and swept away buildings and cars. I’m hoping things settle down now for a day or two.

I tuned my ukulele down a semitone this morning before packing up. I may go down one more. The uke just sounds so much more resonant in B than C. Lower tension suits a really cheap uke like this little beauty. Seems to be the same for my voice too! Maybe I’ll make it index-linked and go down a semitone every time the interest rate goes up a .25%. I could be singing basso profundo by the end of this trip.

I’m tempted to try out a couple of Steely Dan numbers I love, where Donald Fagen’s very high range normally puts me off e.g. Everything Must Go

I made an early coffee stop in the town of Saco, because I’d heard about a diner that’s been here since 1927. The town itself was a total surprise, having never heard of it before – I’m sorry, Saco. It’s a big old mill town with red brick factories, chimneys and warehouses everywhere, with everything beautifully preserved. And what a river!

The diner was down a side street, but busy even so. In fact you have to sign up in advance to eat there, so I just got a coffee to go and had a chat with a waitress who told me that the owner chooses the music playlist (sounded good when I was there – good 70s era rock) but they have access to the ‘skip’ button. They’re 100 years old in 4 years. Same rail car, same spot for all that time. The coffee was, I’m really sorry Palace Diner, a bit nondescript. I’m not that fussy, but they are selling their own-blend coffee for $16 a bag, so I was expecting something with a little more ‘oomph’! Anyway, the sun came out and I set off for the coast.

I followed the ‘9’ to Fortunes Rocks and Cape Porpoise, but only had glimpses of the sea. The road was wonderful, smooth and wide, the houses were smooth, the weather was smooth, the people were charming and smooth. This is a smooth area. Not a lot of spikeyness around here. The road all the way to Kennebunkport (9.5 miles as the crow flies, as the crow flies) was the loveliest and quietest I’ve ridden so far on this trip.

Just for you today, FOTB Mr Jake Rea, a bit of local bridge history in Kennebunkport. Like you, I find the bridges fascinating, but often they come at the bottom of a long descent just before a big ascent, so I do tend to be moving too fast to stop and take snaps.

I got a 2nd breakfast at H.B. Provisions on the main road, which was an absolute emporium of good things. I even got some fresh produce.

After Kennebunkport I stuck to the smaller roads near the coast and had a fabulous ride through some very up-market beachside villages.

Just by this Scott Joplin ice cream van I decided that the time was perfect for a sea swim, and Ogunquit Beach was the perfect beach. I wheeled the bike to the sand and was in the water in my bib shorts before you could say ‘where are you going to shower?’

After such a hot day it felt great to be in the surf, riding waves and cooling down. I really didn’t want to leave. I was having such…

I even considered going…

And the answer to the shower-question was that I’d spotted a foot-washing tap at the toilet block, and used that to wash from my feet upwards, spraying the whole road in the process. It was bliss.

Then I got down to the business of adding some more miles to my day, crossing the border into New Hampshire at the Memorial Bridge

Then I cycled through Portsmouth, which looked amazing and well worth a closer look but not today sadly, and out to Odiorne Point State Park, only to find I’d misread the state parks website, and this one didn’t have camping. As I wearily retraced my route back to find an alternative, I met Ryan, who hailed me from the open window of his vehicle. Within a few words he had invited me to camp in his garden, an offer I accepted immediately. I just couldn’t believe my luck, feeling like even just another 10 miles or so in the afternoon heat was going to be very unwelcome.

Ryan also made time to get the bike tools out and sort out a gear-skipping issue on my derailleur. Thanks again, you’ve been so helpful Ryan!

It’s been a long day, so I think I’ll launch the new state song tomorrow, if that’s okay with you. Do feel free to beat me to it.

SIGNS THAT ARE FUNNY: The first one today is for Jane L, Penny H, Amanda J, Louise P, (Hi all xx!) and anyone else following from Beechwood Park School:

LOBSTERS THAT ARE FUNNY: This just in…more lobsters are taking over the world.

ADIRONDACK CHAIRS THAT ARE EMPTY: These did actually have cushions, suggesting recent use. I got quite excited when a woman walked towards them, but she was just picking up a child’s toy.