I woke up feeling like a different person, proving how effective a restful rest day can be. It was so restorative that even leaving at 4.30am didn’t seem too bad. And best of all, the headwind had mostly taken a rest day too. The sky started lightening in the east about an hour later.

• Today’s Distance (miles): 87 (minus loads for the ferries! Left wahoo on for relive videos)
• Time in saddle: 7h 57
• Max/min temp – in full sun (°c): 36°/21°
• Climbing (feet) : 1,210
• Calories used: 4,195 (less, again because of the ferries)
• Today’s 2nd Breakfast: Iced tea, coffee and cinnamon bun at ferry Comfort Station
• Cafe time: 3h 34

https://www.relive.cc/view/vevYQK914Jv

After the reserve area I arrived in my near namesake of Buxton. So many people misspell my name this way that it feels like a fair inclusion today:

The houses in this area were truly spectacular, standing several storeys high and almost all on stilts. I heard some people talking about sea-level rise yesterday, and one of them said: People say the sea’s gonna rise, but around here most people are up on stilts so they know their properties will be ok’. Okay? I thought. What’s the point in having a house on a street when the whole street is now permanently underwater? I think they were thinking of one-off floods. Sea level rise is a different matter altogether. It’s almost child-like, this lack of engagement with environmental home truths.

The southern end of the OBX is my personal favourite. I liked the real fishing communities feel, and villages themselves, rather than the resort-focussed businesses and big groups of kids-looking-for-fun-after-dark, where I was yesterday. The arrival at the ferry was great, despite the threatening rain. At the ticket booth I was told to go on last, after all the cars were in. I thought, Really?

…but when the actual boat crew saw me they said, ‘Nah, you just roll right on in there right now, and go get yourself a seat upstairs!’ (please add in a great Carolina accent)

Video clip not uploading! I’ll try again tomorrow

Once over on the other side at Ocracoke Island (North), I was met by an enormous line of cars waiting to board the small car ferry. It looked like enough vehicles for the entire day’s crossings to me, maybe more. Lots of people hailed me from their windows, obviously glad of a distraction from their frustrating wait, including a guy who offered me any food and water I needed, as he was fully loaded for camping. Having just restocked, I declined the kind offer. He also told me that the line was caused by a ferry problem at the port I was heading for, but not affecting my ferry. The solution was for people to go all the way up the OBX where I was yesterday, then cut over to the west and drive down again.

I got cycling again – 14 miles in a plumb-straight line through sand dunes and with the beautiful ocean on either side of me, to Ocracoke South. Just as I arrived at the outskirts of Ocracoke, I saw a man on a folding bicycle coming the other way. ‘Oh nice, that’s like mine in London’ I thought. Then I did a double take: it was EXACTLY like mine in London. Unmistakeable a Dahon. In a slightly ridiculous manoeuvre I swung right round in the empty road and set off after him, going back the way I’d come and calling for him to stop. He gradually slowed down enough for me to introduce myself and explain how amazed I was to see this antique, classic folding bike on an island in North Carolina. As we spoke, his wife pulled up behind us, riding….stay calm Ben, take a deep breath…another mint-condition Dahon. Meet Tim and Lisa, new members of my still-in-the-planning-stage organisation called RideIt LikeYouFoldIt.com. I’ve bought the website name a year or two ago and printed a t-shirt of the advert below, so I just need to do something with it now.

2ND BREAKFAST: This was taken at the ‘Comfort Centre’ of the Cedar Island Ferry. A delicious selection from the vending machines, of lemon iced tea, a Keurig coffee pod to use in the machine provided, and a Big Texas Cinnamon Bun.

The next ferry was much longer, but flew by because I got into a long conversation with Joe, cyclist and Marine, who was on his way home in Beaufort from a weekend’s bike adventure to the Outer Banks. We had such a good time sitting at a booth and just sharing experiences of our lives and, particularly, our jobs.

Meanwhile the ferry took another wider course than advertised, possibly to avoid the storm which still got us along the way. We were so comfortable inside that it seemed quite irrelevant at the time. The bike got a bit of a soaking though, and is drying out at this moment. I’m now happily set up at a lovely quiet site right by the ferry, which has finished running for today, Sunday. As am I. I hope everyone has had a good weekend, wherever you are, and see you back here for Monday’s instalment on the mainland of North Caolina. X

WHAT IS IT SAM?

ARTS & CULTURE:

This came in yesterday from Sam himself, with some alternative lyrics to my song choice of Carolina In My Mind by James Taylor, reflecting my poor mood. After my much better days yesterday and today, I feel a bit bad about posting this, but it still really made me laugh. Thank you, Sam:

In my mind I’m gone from Carolina

Can’t you see the road bridge,?

Can’t you just feel the heatwave?

And ain’t it just like a wind of mine to hit me from the front

Yes I’m gone from Carolina in my mind

HEALTH & FITNESS: My post-ride stretches have been sorely (!) neglected this past week or so. I always feel I have so much to do when I arrive somewhere, so they tend to get forgotten. I found a great spot on the first boat to get back into good habits, to the amusement of the crew (the only other people on board not waiting in their cars).

SIGNS THAT ARE OLD:

SIGNS THAT ARE FUNNY: