Last night I mentioned that I did get to see the river that runs beside the campground, and it was mesmerising in the late evening sun. I sat for ages just soaking it all in, knowing that BullsBay and the Atlantic Ocean were just the other side of the reeds in the distance. I was thinking about lots of things that have happened recently, and about Susie, Sam and Jacob back at home, and about my mum, and my dad. It was just one of those places where things come bubbling up, and perhaps one of those moments on a trip when you sense the overall shape of it, for almost the first time.
- Today’s Distance (miles): 45
- Time in saddle: 4h 04
- Max/min temp – in full sun (°c): 42°/26°
- Climbing (feet) : 341
- Calories used: 2,351
- Today’s 2nd Breakfast: Coffee and a Southern biscuit BLT at Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit
- Cafe time: 3h 28
There was such incredible dew everywhere this morning that my clothes on the line were wetter than when I hung them out last night. The tent was dripping too, so I just packed up thinking about getting to the motel later, for a good drying out.
After a good night’s sleep – despite the incredible (but hypnotic) noise of wildlife coming from the forest by my tent and it being 30c at 3am when I stirred briefly! – I made the standard camp breakfast of porridge/bagel/coffee and was cycling by 8am, destination Charleston. I was excited at the prospect of seeing this famous town for the first time, and it didn’t fail to impress. I followed the Google cycle route most of the way to the Arthur Ravens Jnr Bridge, which has its very own designated cycleway. I have missed these SOOOO much.
As soon as I’d entered Charleston proper the sun was out and the heat was amazing. I made straight for the French Quarter towards the south end of town, where I knew the covered City Market was going to be in full swing. After attaching my bike to a wooden pallet…
…I walked the whole length of the indoor market, some in a/c and the rest open-sided with ceiling fans. I stopped for 2nd breakfast at the place with the biggest queue, Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit (which we in England would call a savoury scone). I went for their own-blend coffee and a buttermilk biscuit sandwich BLT, with roasted tomato, arugula (rocket) and lemon basil mayo. It was absolutely amazing, and so filling that I couldn’t finish it. I’m still in shock at that. Hasn’t happened since the curly fries/broken till incident in Canada somewhere, back in 2017.
After conceding defeat I went and sat in the cool shade where I’d left the bike, drinking complimentary iced water by the bidon-ful and listening to the live music.
Ready to face the heat with my trusty bandana soaked in cold water, I set out to explore the French Quarter in more detail. First I visited Rainbow Row, famous for the house colours (just a tiny bit like Elgin Crescent in London).
I’m not going to try and describe every building I saw after that, because they are just incredible, almost every one. I could barely decide when to stop taking pictures. I think this calls for a Gallery, don’t you?
Aren’t they just amazing? Even the local store I passed (closed on Sundays) was special.
I could keep posting pictures all day, but I think that’s enough. I saw the waterfront too, and made good use of my great super-compact binoculars given to me by Susie’s father Morley this April.
Then I finally got to end a day on a high note, not a gruelling slog. A long cycle greenway followed the highway all the way to my motel. Still very hot, but just great.
A QUICK THOUGHT ON HEAT: The US, or this part at least, really isn’t that much hotter than, say, Rome in August. It just that the sheer scale of this country makes for so many exposed places when you travel. Italy has sorted this out, by creating shade over thousands of years. I thought about that a lot today in the closely-packed, tree-lined lanes of Charleston, and the blissful shade created there.
WHAT IS IT SAM?
STREET NAME SIGNS THAT ARE FUNNY:
THE FAB FOUR STRIKE AGAIN:
INCIDENTSᐧOFᐧTRAVEL 
The big question is did you hear or see a Charleston. I’m reliably informed by wiki that the original composer from New Jersey picked up the rhythmic ideas from dock workers dancing in Charleston. It was called a juba dance, which sounds rather like tuba; gives me an idea for a new piece!
Interestingly the foremost juba dancer Box Juba toured USA and Europe in 1840s. He was apparently an amazing performer. His story would make a great screenplay.
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I think there ‘s a blog in the making there Amanda! Bizarre Origins of Dance, or BOD?
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There’s a Johns Island right by Charleston – so you just need to find a Paul around those parts somewheres.
What a beautiful place, though most of it was built by slaves. I wonder if that weighs on the minds of people who live in those incredible old homes? Glad you had such a lovely day. Here’s to another one today xoxoxox
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Must be another St Paul somewhere? Yes, Yisrael yesterday told me lots of the old plantations have been bought up as trophy homes. He would have been great for local stories but you couldn’t keep him to one subject!
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Looks like an amazing town – love the ‘Lodge’ sign and what a place to have this! You do notice some very amusing signs…
Have you missed a rest day this week? Or have I missed that one?? Hope you have some wonderful cycle lanes to enjoy this week! xx
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You’re right, I really missed a rest day but taking one today, the hottest day so far!
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Great photo from the bridge with the cycle lane! Crazy perspective
I’m pretty sure the bird is a Black Vulture. Similar to Turkey Vulture but with a black rather than raw pink head. And for the starfish I decided to actually put some effort in and do some googling to try and find a candidate. Based on my rigorous research I think it may be a Gray Sea Star (Luidia clathrata). XX
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