Day 19 – NEW YORK CITY!

(Please bid farewell to the lovely Shell road map, of 1936. I’ll have to find another one for the next stage…)

I awoke to the sight of leafy branches waving in the breeze (I slept with the top down again, loving it), birds chirruping, and thought, NEW YORK! I have a feeling that today’s posting is going to be a really long one, so why not do what I do? Grab a mug of coffee and settle down somewhere comfortable for this installment of Crossing the USA, top-to-bottom.

  • Today’s Distance (miles): 47 (with all the stopping today it felt twice as far!)
  • Time in saddle: 4h 52
  • Max/min temp – in full sun (°c): 34°/20°
  • Climbing (feet) : 895
  • Calories used: 2,732
  • Today’s 2nd Breakfast: Scramble, home fries, bacon and buttered rye toast at the Majestic Diner, Westbury, Long Island (sound familiar?)
  • Cafe time: 5h 50

Packed and on the road by 7.30am, I stopped for the second day in a row at a classic steel diner, The Majestic, and had the works! My plan was get well-fuelled for the day and to sit out the main rush hour into New York in comfort, and with coffee.

The boss, at the till in this photo, stood by my table for ages asking me about my journey and how long it would take me. He asked ‘So you came from London to Halifax?’ I said yes. ‘He said ‘All that way, on a bike?’ ‘Er..no’, I said, ‘I flew to Halifax’. ‘Aaaaaah!’, he said. Surprisingly this is by no means the first time someone has asked me the same question.
Musician on a Bike Getting 2nd Breakfast, S2 Ep3,780 (I checked!) The food was good, but not quite as good as yesterday’s identical dish. Except for the toast – it may look like the same, but it was proper, delicious, heavy, toasted rye bread, and dripping with butter.

Susie has suggested a theme tune for the whole day today, amidst a fantastic collection of musical suggestions from all of you, thank you! I’m loving listening to the ones I don’t already know. Anyway, it’s from, in my humble opinion, the best, the wisest (certainly the funniest!) film about New Yorkers that I know, The Odd Couple (from the play by Neil Simon). Please do chip in with movie thoughts of your own, there must be thousands of options.

If we all just watch this for a couple of minutes, I think the shared experience will enhance the atmosphere of today’s blog. This is a film that finds humour (and wisdom) in the craziness of trying to make sense of being who we are. As Jack (Felix) says, right in the heart of the film, ‘We are what we are’. That’s my thought for the day.

I got such a big reaction to posting the ‘Relive’ video of crossing over to Long Islnad, I thought I’d another from yesterday. I’ll try to get one done for today as well at some point, so you can follow me into the heart of the city.

THE RIDE INTO NEW YORK CITY: After leaving the diner I quickly got into a long, pleasant stretch of cycling along quiet (empty) residential streets, wide and smooth, and kind of following the Long Island Railway track towards Brooklyn.

The section cycling through East Brooklyn was a little, er, interesting, but no-one bothered me and before I knew it I was outside the Brooklyn Museum (with a short rain stop when I phoned Susie from Dunkin Donuts. Because she can track my progress, she already knew i was there. Freaky)

It’s funny that when you get NYC up on Google Maps, the biggest ‘highlight’ isn’t the Empire State Building, the Chrysler, Greenwich Village or the Museum of Modern Art; it’s the MUSEUM OF ICE CREAM! (There’s a hint here about my planned route into town…)

I navigated the leafy streets of Brooklyn towards my crossing over to Manhattan today, the Brooklyn Bridge. I’ve crossed this a few times over the years, but never like this!

My first ‘view’ of the Statue of Liberty for a few years

Crossing the bridge itself was fantastic, due to the smooth bike lane that keeps everything away from the bikes, and vice versa.

Then a few minutes later I’d arrived on Manhattan

The ‘1 World Trade Centre’ building, on the site of the old Twin towers.

After a detour to explore Battery Park, where I made a new friend:

DEFINITELY a ‘What Is It, Sam?’! I think it’s from Wes Anderson film, ‘The Life Aquatic with Steve Zizou’ – Jacob Brown my host just told me he thinks it’s a Lantern Fly, and we’re legally obliged to kill them. They are invasive, from East Asia.

…I cycled into Greenwhich Village to stop and get a slice of pizza and a root beer at Joe’s famous pizza place.

Followed by an alfresco $8 ice cream – hazelnut and (guess what, Susie?) vanilla.

Then it was straight up 6th Avenue, Avenue of the Americas, to Central Park.

The park was such fun on a bike. Again, it’s the first time that I’ve ever done this. I kept recognising bits I’d been to before, but just flew past them.

Riding through Central Park

I called out to chap riding a Brompton, to say, well, ‘Nice Brompton!’, and he turned out to be an astrophysicist who worked at the Max Planck Institute in Heidlberg until recently. We rode along together for the whole of the northern half of the park, talking about his work, and folding bikes (of course). Then he peeled off with a nod of the head and was gone. His parting words were, ‘My father was a poet and composer!’, so now I’m left wondering who the hell that was I just met…any ideas, all of you clever astrophysicists, poets and composers out there?

Since Seinfeld has been cropping up a bit on the blog lately – I think it must have been the proximity to New York – I just had to make a short diversion, before arriving at my host’s for the night (and tomorrow), Susie’s relative Jacob Brown. I swung over to Broadway for an iced coffee and muffin at the one and only Tom’s Diner, fictional home to every one of those fabulous booth-conversations between Jerry, George, Elaine and Kramer in the TV series, where it was called Monk’s Cafe. Only the exterior was used, so it looks nothing like it inside.

But the piece of music I’m going to post here isn’t the Seinfeld theme tune, with its weird popping effects and slap-bass guitar. Here’s something else that this place is famous for, and that I believe I once posted on this blog in connection with something else. Can anyone remember?:

This great live BBC version gives a little background to the song too.

Then it was a short ride over to Harlem, near Morningside Park, where I met Jacob at his apartment, hung my bike from the wall in his building’s garage (minus those excellent panniers – thank you, Ortliebs), and went up to the great apartment he shares with Chris. They both work in the finance sector in New York. Then after a shower we headed out for dinner nearby – udon chicken noodles and sapporo beers, then we returned to raid Jacob’s extensive ice cream collection. It’s been an incredible day, unforgettable and worth every ounce of effort its taken to get here. To make things even sweeter, tomorrow, due to the specialness of being here in the city, has been designated by the management as a FREE DAY!

THANK YOU FOR THE MUSIC: Another great suggestion from John Mills from yesterday, Times Square Ballet from Bernstein’s On The Town. John and I used to play this often with the John Wilson Orchestra a few years back.

SIGNS THAT ARE FUNNY: Just one today, due to extreme navigating!

17 thoughts on “Day 19 – NEW YORK CITY!

  1. Max Planck Institute in Heidelberg! On the very road where I grew up. Small world.
    Loving reading your blog Ben. Never a dull line!
    And now you’re in New York I can just see it all – I have cycled there many times while I had children living there.
    Thank you! Loving the music too. Steffi the Insomniac

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    1. I thought of you and your dad when he told me he spent time in Heidelberg. And of Jacob’s exchange there from RSSKL. Necking naughty beers by the Neckar. NYC is surprisingly fun to cycle around isn’t it. You must have loved it! In fact it’s the best way to do anything here really. Just exactly the right vehicle for the distances. Loving it. But not today – rest day of walking and buses. Great to hear from you Steffi and I hope you get some sleep! Bxx

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  2. If you were a week later then I’d have suggested you head to Madison Square Gardens for Billy Joels monthly concert. So instead I’ll suggest New York State of Mind, although I’d rework the last verse for the bike.

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  3. What a day! I’m guessing tomorrow will be even better with the day off!! Trying to think if I can work out who the scientist was… hmmm.

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      1. I thought for a minute that Freeman Dyson (1923-2020), son of the composer Sir George Dyson, had slipped through a wormhole into your timeline, but I don’t think he ever worked at the Max Planck Institute. So it can’t have been him.

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  4. I loved Seinfeld back in the day. The bass guitar links were the coolest thing I’d ever heard. Imagine my disappointment when I watched a ‘Making Of’ documentary and learned that they were all played on a keyboard.

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    1. I did Jake which took me down the rabbit hole of the excellent spoof version, Newport State of mind, which if you’ve not viewed I highly recommend!

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  5. On The Town…”New York, New York, it’s a helluva (un-bowdlerized version) Town. Gene Kelly, Jules Munshin and Frankie. C’mon!

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  6. I have to agree with Jacob that your colourful bug is the invasive Spotted Lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula), although I would have struggled had Jacob not suggested that! Perhaps you’ve discovered how it’s spread through the US – camouflaged on bike panniers. 😉 x

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