Day 22 – Cedar Creek, NJ to Tamerlane Campground, NJ

One night I’m on the 8th floor of Jacob’s apartment building on Manhattan Ave, New York City, the next I’m in a wood in New Jersey. No wonder I get confused when I wake up.

  • Today’s Distance (miles): 78
  • Time in saddle: 5h 59
  • Max/min temp – in full sun (°c): 38°/21°
  • Climbing (feet) : 1.022
  • Calories used: 4,269
  • Today’s 2nd Breakfast: big meal at McDonalds,
  • Cafe time: 3h 47

Last night I hit a bit of a wall. Trying to write and upload the blog whilst also having a great deal of trouble finding anywhere to stay the following night (tonight), when I wanted to just enjoy being in the beautiful spot where I’d pitched my tent, made my brain seize up and say ‘enough, goodnight’, well before I’d finished using it.

In my disfunctioning state last night I failed to mention a few things:

1. I swam in the sea again, and it felt fab. Big Atlantic breakers made it such fun, rather than a lazy float, but I didn’t get a video. I had to spend 10 minutes persuading the guy checking for permits to let me swim for free before being allowed on the beach. Get this – it was a public beach that charges $10 for a visit. I said I was going to Swim’n’Go, and he ended up agreeing it would be just weird to charge me a fee for that. Then I showered and de-sanded my feet using my own spare water bottle, and got back on the road.

My shower station, just before I made a big wet mess everywhere. The New Jersey coastline has SO many rules it’s exhausting. Two weird ones are that the lovely wooden steps up and over the long sea wall are private, so you’d have to rock-climb to get to the sea, and that you MAY NOT serve yourself with fuel at a gas station. The beach ticket guy told me that second one, as if it was just dawning on him that ‘normal’ may not be ‘normal’ after all.

2. Ocean Avenue is amazing. There’s a boardwalk that mostly does not allow bikes, but there was a wide smooth road right next to it and I loved cruising along it. It was totally holiday-town-territory, everywhere I passed through, with some really impressive properties.

3. I got a second swim after I arrived at Cedar Creek Campground, where they had a huge pool, 12ft deep and with a water slide. I did some stretches, backstroke and then just finally relaxed a bit. There was a kid who slid down the water slide tube, swam and climbed out, then shouted to his dad ‘I need to pee!’. ‘C’mon over here then’, said dad. The kid then did all the above again, shouting ‘I still need to pee!, at dad again. ‘Well come over here then!!’, shouted dad. Off went the kid back up the slide. I heard mum sigh and say to dad ‘D’ya think he’s done it now?’ Dad laughed.

4. WE’RE IN NEW JERSEY – State No.6. I can’t believe I didn’t mention this already either. So a new piece of music is required, and my offering is some great Chuck Berry. Performed 20 years after my Shell map was printed, this song, You Can’t Catch Me, is about driving a new car down the New Jersey turnpike. What amazed me when I listened to it right through, is that the Beatles stole a line from this song in a track from Abbey Rd, Come Together. The Beatles sing ‘Here come old flat top he come groovin’ up slowly’. If you listen you’ll hear Chuck Berry sing the same tune and the line ‘Here come a flat-top, he was movin’ up with me’. You learn something new every day. The Beatles were incredibly original but like everyone original they were also standing on the shoulders of giants.

So back to today. I finally got lucky and called a campground, Tamerlane at the very top of Cape May in an area called South Shore Region, that just said ‘Sure, we’ll see you later’. It’s such a joy when you don’t get into a discussion about all the myriad reasons they won’t accept a simple bike and a tent for one night. It’s so tedious. there seems to be a change in the role of campground, from ‘campground’ to ‘resort-wannabe’, places that just can’t make enough bucks out of people like me, who really need a patch of ground for the night and a shower.

I followed Route 9 almost all the way, stopping for second breakfast after about 25 miles, and listening to loads of tracks on my phone as I speed along. Hardly any traffic lights, a wide shoulder and a side/tail wind today, which transformed my cycling after the last few days. And GREAT weather, forecast for the whole weekend. The plan is to reach the Cape May Ferry tomorrow afternoon, earlier if posssble.

I’d always planned to pass through Atlantic City and also Ocean City on this trip. I know their reputation for being very over-the-top Casino resorts, but I wanted to see for myself. It was honestly quite a dreadful experience, but I kept moving despite the crowds on the boardwalks (I gave up in Ocean City and joined the road instead – bliss) and did see some amazing buildings. This was America on holiday to the power of 10. Here’s a quick photo gallery:

I then phoned Susie as I cycled along using headphones, who gave me wonderful encouragement as my energy dipped in the heat (it was steaming all day) even though I had that dreadful ‘several more than ten miles’ still to go.

This long bridge, despite being almost the only climbing on the whole ride, used up my last bit of oomph. I stopped at the top to get a picture of a beautiful couple of houses

I got into Tamerlane in time to enjoy a lovely shower, Christmas, a swim (see below) and I’m writing this by the pool, with the sun going down and the cooking still to do. Goodnight wherever you are, and I hope you enjoy the odds and ends below! Bx

Just because it’s on my mind, here’s a song I listened to today that got really stuck in my head. Hide & Seek by the brilliant Imogen Heap. If you watched the amazing tv series Normal People, you may find that you know this track already (headphones are strongly recommended).

I finally arrived at the very most lovely campground, Tamerlane. They don’t overcharge, the hosts are lovely and welcoming, it was Christmas here this evening (getting used to it now), the atmosphere is so relaxed and friendly. This is the one for me, in almost every way, tied with Searsport back in Maine although that was a totally different experience. I chatted with three very sweet girls aged 6, 7 and 9 who asked me question after question about being English. ‘You sound different!’, said the nosiest and youngest. ‘I do’ I said. ‘I say words differently to you don’t I? You say ‘take a bath, and I say take a baath’. ‘You mean ‘bath’, corrected the youngest. ‘Yes but I say ‘baath’. She was getting a bit annoyed now. ‘It’s ‘bath. BATH!’. I decided to change the subject back to Christmas, but she had another thing she wanted to know. ‘What do you do if you come to a sea, or a water?’. ‘Well, what does mummy or daddy do if they come to water in your car?’ ‘They go over’. ‘Well so do I’. ‘Yes, but what do you doooo?’. I was so tempted to say ‘OK, you got me, I paddle with a ukulele’, but it was their turn in the Santa queue.

ADIRONDACK CHAIRS THAT REFUSE TO BE SAT IN:

I’ve provided a car in shot, for perspective.
Ocean City – same old story

ARTS & CULTURE: I WhatsApp-videocalled Susie from the et al cafe in Atlantic Highlands yesterday, and at one point Susie said ‘Hang on, stay there, wait, ok’, and we continued the conversation. Now I realise that she had noticed how incredibly artistic I was looking, and has sent me this collage to prove it. I’m am very much part of the Art Flou school of painting. We eschew the regressive thinking of those Art Ciblé dinosaurs. (Please feel free to look those words up. I did. Ha!)

SPORTS: Not a swimming video today (I could not face a swim in either Atlantic City or Ocean City, and wasn’t happy about leaving the bike anyway), but a view-from-the-swim instead:

There was even a snow machine at the campground Christmas celebrations this evening.

Here’s my arty-ish pic of the day.

SIGNS (AND THINGS) THAT ARE FUNNY: rich pickings today, enjoy.

I bet that when they had this installed they were the envy of the neighbourhood.
Cedar Creek on Saturday morning before I left: Riding a canoe with a faceless stranger, with a paddle but no ukulele, and heading for a fall(s). Classic.
This splendid water tower celebrates the Beechwood Park Summer School, aka Beachwood.

The funny thing about this one is that I thought these were fake deer, they were so still as they nibbled on someone’s lawn. As I started filming, a guy passed me on a bike and shouted, ‘Great shot!’.

Don’t dress it up all fancy, tell it how it is
The New Jersey ‘Stealth’ Ferry.

7 thoughts on “Day 22 – Cedar Creek, NJ to Tamerlane Campground, NJ

  1. Hmm – I see another Photoshop opportunity with the Cedar Creek canoe shot…
    Btw, I didn’t think you were looking artistic. I could see you had a funny hat on, that’s all (it was a porch behind your head) so I put you with some other people with funny hats on.
    Great blog! Hope you have a slightly less tiring day today. With you all the way xoxoxox

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Yeah that private/public beach policy is crazy!
    Is that buzzing around the pool from cicadas? Thought I might have heard a chickadee calling in the trees too!
    Well done for pushing through the slump. What are your favourite mantras at the moment when the going gets tough? Is it still ‘shut up legs’? 🙂 X

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Great progress, Ben… really enjoying
      reading the blog every day. Not surprising that you hit a bit of a wall after your early start and all those miles.
      I’m missing the daily map… have you not been able to find another map of this area? I’ve had to resort to Google maps to find out whereabouts you are!
      Hope you’ve had a good day today. Px

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Thank you Penny! No, the map is an ongoing issue – partly because there’s no-where much to even look for one around here! Paper maps are almost extinct in the US, but I’ll keep trying those 2nd hand book shops! The one I bought for $1 in Brattles Boston, I saw on eBay for $30!

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    2. Thanks Sam! My mantra recently is a bit like the RSSKL Volleyball team – ‘C’mon, another five more miles!’ Changes regularly tho or it doesn’t work.
      Yes, cicadas are everywhere at night, and fireflies too, but mainly in the wooded campgrounds. I love em! So pretty from inside the tent as I’m falling asleep.

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  3. Hi Ben,
    I hope you’re seeing lots of beautiful gardens as you cycle through NJ?! Keep those pedals turning. Keep the blog coming , it’s brilliant. Over £2000 on just giving. It’s inspirational.

    Have a listen to Jersey Bounce and the silky voice of Ella Fitzgerald. Sorry I can’t post it…need a lesson from Susie!

    J

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Susie has become expert at pasting into comments! It’s true. Thanks for all the encouragement too Jake, much appreciated. NJ was great, Delaware is flying by and I’ll be in Maryland before you know it. I’m waiting for the rain to start right now, from the comfort of a Denny’s booth! I’ll check out the jersey bounce. Got to be good with that name.

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